Expeditionen

Annapurna (Honza Trávníček) 2012
Personally, for me, something incredible! I managed to climb on my third eight-thousander, and moreover, it was Annapurna which is definitely one of the most difficult mountains.

So, what exactly happened May 6, 2012?

Personally, for me, something incredible! I managed to climb on my third eight-thousander, and moreover, it was Annapurna which is definitely one of the most difficult mountains. Besides, in the company of Czech star of contemporary Himalayan climbing – Radek Jaroš. Thus, this statement may be made: “Honza Tráva Trávníček and Radek Jaroš reached the summit of Annapurna, 8091 meters above sea level, on May 6, 2012 (without oxygen). It has been a quarter century since the last Czech team returned home safely (1988, at the top, there were Jind?ích Martiš, Josef Nežerka, Josef Rakoncaj). In 2009, Martin Mina?ík disappeared during the descent. Therefore, they became the fourth and fifth Czechs on the summit of Annapurna.”

What preceded this action – prologue?

Do you remember, when I returned from Gasherbrum (2009), and I said I will not PROBABLY go to another eigh-thousander? Do you remember, when I returned from Manaslu (2011), and I said I will not DEFINITELY go to another one? Well, I did it again. It was very difficult to resist the temptation of Radek. Moreover, it was a real honor to be able to participate and help him in completing the “project” of the Crown of the Himalayas. Annapurna was his 13th eight-thousander.

How did it go?

I will describe it briefly. I named our “journey” “Honzik trip to Nepal”. We did not spend too much time anywhere. First, we underwent acclimatization trek to the basecamp under Lhotse and Everest, then we experienced the acclimatization ascent to Lhotse. Here, we wanted to spend the night at the altitude of about 7300m. Unfortunately, this did not happen. The conditions were difficult – little snow, ice water in the wall and falling stones. We had to be content with reaching the high of 7000m without spending a night there. Thus, we acclimatized “only” 3 nights at 6400m. Fortunately, it was sufficient for Annapurna ascent, where we wanted to be as fast as possible.
After the quick relocation to the lowlands, we had a rest in Khathmandu and Pokhara. But it was only a few days. We had to hurry up under Annapurna and to start our ascent. There were several expeditions. Unusually many people as if they were waiting for us.

And what to say about the ascent?

I think that the following sentence captures my feelings completely: “Never more!” What had the greatest impact on me? – in the points:
  • Every day between 12 and 15h the bad weather started.
  • A lot of avalanches, even in the climbing route.
  • A lot of technically difficult sections.
  • Five high-altitude camps built mostly in dangerous places (but there was no other option).
  • The day of ascent lasting 22h when I touched my bottom.
  • Death of our friend from Hungary, probably in an avalanche.
  • Radek´s severe frostbite of toes.
Fortunately, I avoided more severe frostbites thanks to my new “feathers” partner – Carinthia. Generally, I can say that I was very satisfied and thank you very much for your support. Unfortunately, feather articles have the disadvantage that on “eight-thousanders”, often you use them only during a few final days. Thus there is not much time and strength to take photos. Especially, on the summit such as Annapurna.

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